There is a beach between Penbryn and Llangrannog that doesn’t appear on most tourist maps and has no car park, no café and no facilities of any kind. It’s called Carreg-y-ty, and it is one of the best beaches on the Ceredigion coast, with a small island just off the coast and an amazing cave that you can swim through to the sea beyond.

The path down is steep and uneven. It is not suitable for very small children or anyone who isn’t confident on rough ground. That combination of factors is precisely why, even in August, you are unlikely to share it with more than a handful of people.

Getting There

You can get there in the car by parking at Penbryn and walking back toward Llangrannog. Alternatively walk south from Cwmtydu along the Wales Coast Path towards Penbryn. The path climbs above the cliffs before dropping towards the Penbryn valley. Before you reach the National Trust beach at Penbryn, watch for the scramble path down to Carreg-y-ty on your right. It’s not signposted. Look for the gap in the gorse and the worn ground at the cliff edge.

The descent is short but requires both hands at points. Come back the same way, or continue south to Penbryn and return to Cwmtydu along the coast path. The full loop from Ty Cwch to Carreg-y-ty and back via Penbryn is around eight miles.

What to Expect

The beach is sand and pebble with clear water. At low tide there’s more sand. At high tide it narrows considerably, so check the tide times before you go. Swimming’s good when the sea’s calm. There is no shelter from the wind if it comes in from the west.

Take everything you need with you because there’s nothing there. 

Penbryn

If Carreg-y-ty feels too committing, Penbryn is a ten-minute walk further south. It is a National Trust beach reached along a wooded valley path. The car park is at the top of the valley, which keeps the beach relatively quiet even in summer. Good sand, clean water, and a seasonal café at the car park end of the path.